Neo Tamarind has a new evening menu that’s to die for.
NEO Tamarind Hill, the iconic restaurant at the top of the stairs in downtown KL, has a reputation for good food, and this month, Chef Thiti Thammanatr, who hails from Bangkok and Vancouver, is presenting an avant-garde menu that takes the best from both Thai and Western cuisines.
“It’s not fusion; it’s more experimental,” he muses.
“I think of it as Thai Progress because it keeps evolving. It’s borderless, too, as there are many ingredients that aren’t part of classic Thai cooking such as lamb, salmon, couscous, hummus and foie gras.”
Atmosphere at Neo is unusual, too. The mist fans, liquid walls and wall torches, galactic bar and semi-open air architecture create a fire-and-water theme. Everything is served on black plates as Chef Titi loves to play with colour — this stark background is the perfect foil for the red, yellow and green creamy Thai curry sauces that are the signature tone of his menu.
We start with some amuse bouche (literally “to amuse the mouth”) of tiny papaya, pineapple and watermelon cubes served with a splash of balsamic reduction. What gives it a twist is the slightly crunchy texture of the fruit, courtesy of a blast with a tiny blowtorch. A single strand of spaghetti lies on top, deep-fried to crunchy goodness.
This tiny taste treat does just what it’s meant to do — our taste buds are primed with pleasant anticipation.
Next is the shared appetiser, small dishes of Hummus garnished with Paprika and Eggplant Caviar, a delicious reduction of fresh eggplant. Wedges of thin Pita bread, crisped lightly and brushed with butter, are the perfect vehicle for transporting flavour.
Superb: The Grilled Tiger Prawns Over Scallion Risotto Served With A Spicy Lemon grass Teriyaki Sauce is perfection.After that, we start with soft shell crab, salmon sashimi and foie grass. The Deep-Fried Soft Shell Crab Tempura With Peanut Satay Sauce (RM38) is rich yet light. Rather than serve the usual chilli sauce, Chef Titi offered a roughly chopped spiced sauce where the chunky peanut gives the dish texture, while the chilli highlights the sweet crab meat.
The Salmon Sashimi Served In A Cilantro & Thai Chilli Vinaigrette (RM35) is clearly a treat. The fish is thickly cut and has that rich pinky red colour that shouts freshness while white marbling of fat promises melt-in-the-mouth softness. We’re not disappointed. Not only is the salmon first rate, but the citrus in the dressing highlights the flavour with the chilli aftertaste, packing a delightful punch without overshadowing the fish. This dish is to die for.
The Pan Seared Foie Gras With Mango-Passion Fruit Puree & Kaffir Lime Oil (RM54) is perfectly seared and very lightly sauced with a sour passionfruit and sweet mango reduction. The rich, creamy meat is perfectly balanced by the fruit. At this point, we start losing track of our favourite.
We’re also running out of adjectives: delicious, divine, and scrumptious doesn’t seem to cover it.
We order risotto, lamb and duck for our main course.
The Grilled Tiger Prawns Over Scallion Risotto Served With A Spicy Lemongrass Teriyaki Sauce (RM45) is perfection. The rice is cooked al dente, providing texture for the lightest warm, nutty sesame sauce. The huge tiger prawns are bursting with juicy goodness.
The Firewood Roasted Red Curry Duck Breast With Basil Mash Potato And Grape Salad (RM55) is a visual masterpiece. Thick slices of duck resting on a bed of basil-infused potato are surrounded by a ribbon of curry sauce. However, there’s a twist: instead of the usual heavy coconut base, this sauce has been prepared with cream.
The result is a divinely delicious combination that sets off the tender bird.
The Braised Lamb Shank, Ratatouille With Mocha Flavour Mash Potato And Green Curry Foam (RM70) is the piece de resistance of the menu, and rightly so as it combines Thai, French and Italian influences. The meat falls off the bone at the first touch of the spoon. Again there’s the Thai green curry sauce made with cream that works so beautifully with tender meat.
The Barai Warm Chocolate Cake &Frozen Whipped Cream is worth a try.For the more traditional patrons, there is the tomato-based ratatouille.
What causes the ooh’s and ah’s, however, is the mocha-infused mashed potato. Frankly, the subtle coffee flavouring makes this good enough to form a dish on its own.
Reasonable people would call it quits at this point and roll home, but we are seduced by a platter featuring Neo’s desserts. The Quartz Coconut & Pink Diamond Vanilla Gelato (RM22) is a beautifully textured version of local kueh. The Jade Green Tea Cream Brulee With Passion Fruit Cappuccino (RM28) has a delectable crispy topping and creamy smooth eggy sweetness underneath. The Pandan Cheese Cake (RM28) retains the firm texture of cheese, but has a refreshing local pandan twist.
Finally, there is the Barai Warm Chocolate Cake & Frozen Whipped Cream (RM28) that should be delivered on a spot-lit platter. You break your fork through the moist, slightly crisped outside layer and into sweet warm chocolaty fudge inside. Hints of mixed spice bring out the dark chocolate flavour. The twist is provided by the tiny chopped chilli padi along the edges.
Tasting with caution, I’m prepared for that classic pungent burn and discover that the Aztecs were right: Chilli goes beautifully with chocolate.
If you are looking for something unusual, this menu is worth a try.
Lunch is a classic Thai Burmese menu. The new menu is served at night. Neo has limited free parking. If it’s busy, there is a jockey service. Fee RM4.
