Tales are aplenty when families come together during festivals and special occasions to share meals. Most times a special dish from the family recipe bears witness to the occasions. In Star Metro’s My Family Cookbook, ANNIE OOI, discovers a unique Nyonya dish that is rarely found at yong tau foo stalls.

SHREDDED papaya stuffed in green chillies is a rare find at yong tau foo stalls.

But your appetite for this acar (pickle) can be satiated if you know Doris Ooi, a housewife who excels in cooking Nyonya dishes.

''I learned to cook a lot of Nyonya dishes from my late mother-in-law, Lee Kheng Lin,'' said Ooi.

''One of them is Green Papaya Pickle, which is an uncommon dish.''

Ooi who stays in Petaling Jaya, is an avid cook, albeit an impatient one.

Lee admits to being an impatient cook but an avid one.

''I am grateful to my mother-in-law for her patience in teaching me the various Nyonya dishes.

''She never lost her temper; I was the impatient one.

''When the dishes did not turn out right, she would encourage me to try again the next day.''

''She would say to me: Let’s just throw them away, the ingredients do not cost much.''

Lin was the granddaughter of Kapitan Cina Tai Choon Thow of Kedah and she lived with Ooi from 1967 to 1975.

''During our cooking sessions, she would tell me stories of her mother and grandfather, while patiently preparing the dishes.

''I was the cakap banyak (chatterbox) type and would ask a lot of questions.''

Now, whenever Ooi makes any of the dishes like Acar Awak, Nasi Ulam, Ketupat Kedah, Nyonya Chang and Rempah Udang, she would think of Lin.

''Like her, I still do my Nyonya dishes the traditional way, such as toasting the banana leaf over the fire and pounding the spices.''

The main ingredients for the Green Papaya Pickle are green papaya and green chillies. And the dish centres on the colour green.

''The ideal papaya to use for this recipe is one which is slightly yellow on the outside, with the flesh a creamy white and slightly reddish near the centre.''

Green chillies are favoured over the red ones for their crunchiness, although the red ones add colour.

The stuffed chilli is soaked in the gravy overnight.

''Green chillies are not easy to find nowadays, and at RM11 per kilo, aren’t cheap either.

''I select those that are short and plump.''

The papaya has to be scraped into fine strips and dried in the sun for two days for best results.

Young ginger, garlic, dried shrimps and sesame seeds are also used in the dish.

The mixture is prepared slightly wet to make stuffing easier.

The gravy is made with grated turmeric deep-fried in sunflower or peanut oil until crispy.

The turmeric is thrown away before vinegar, water, sugar and salt are added.

Cili padi adds kick to the taste but it has to be steamed first as using it raw will make the pickle turn rancid fast.

When stuffing, always start from the pointed end of the green chilli, using a pair of chopsticks.

The chilli has to be slit open first by using a pair of sharp scissors.

The stuffed chilli is then placed in the gravy, which is in a glass bowl.

The Green Papaya Pickle (front) and the ingredients used.

Garlic and ginger is sprinkled over the chilli before the dish is left overnight.

''You can keep the pickle for two weeks in the refrigerator.''

Although the preparation of this dish is time-consuming, Ooi is ready to oblige whenever her friends or relations clamour for a taste.

''When I am invited for occasions, I am told not to bring presents, but to bring a home-made dish!''

If you have tales to share from your family dining table, write to us at Metro@thestar.com.my.